Nantes is the capital of Pays de la Loire and one of France’s largest cities. Despite its importance, it has somehow remained off the beaten path. To some, its center is not as impressive as the center of other French cities. However, Nantes excels in modern architecture. We spent almost a month in the city, and loved it!
A decade ago, the Nantes Tourism Office launched the Voyage a Nantes project. They developed a 12-mile (20 km) route that follows cool artistic installations all around the city. All you have to do is follow the green line marked on the pavement. It’s such a fun way to discover beautiful art and architecture.
Nantes Architecture Masterpieces
Chateau Des Ducs De Bretagne 1207
Nantes was the capital of the historical province of Bretagne until 1955. Now it’s part of the Loire-Atlantique department. The magnificent Château des ducs de Bretagne is a testament to such glorious past. From the 13th to 16th Century, it was the official residence of the Dukes of Brittany. Today, it hosts the Nantes History Museum.
The first structure on the site was built in the 13th Century. The one we can see today is a reconstruction from the late 15th-century. The castle served as a defense fortress and a royal palace, thus its massive appearance. A moat surrounds giant defense walls. In the courtyard, an imposing renaissance palace will catch your eye.
Nantes Cathedral 1434
The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul of Nantes is a Roman Catholic Cathedral and the seat of the Diocese of Nantes. Works on the cathedral commenced in 1434. After more than 400 years, it was finished in 1891. In the summer of 2020, a fire broke inside the cathedral that destroyed the grand organ from 1621.
The temple looks essentially Gothic. However, the exterior contrasts sharply with the interior. While the façade is unadorned, the inside is elaborate and dazzling. The altar is exquisite. Don’t forget to check the tomb of Francis II, Duke of Brittany, and his wife, Marguerite de Foix.
Musee D’Arts De Nantes 1801
The Fine Arts Museum of Nantes is the city’s largest and most impressive museum. The museum was founded in 1801, but it moved to the present building in 1893. The art collection of more than 13.000 artworks includes pieces by renowned artists like Rubens, Delacroix, Kandinsky, and Picasso.
The main building on Georges Clemenceau Street is a late 19th-century neoclassical palace. The building centers around a large covered courtyard. The monumental staircase in front of it will take your breath away. A new and slick minimalist part and the nearby Chapel of the Oratory were added in 2011.
Passage Pommeraye 1840
Construction of Passage Pommeraye began in 1840 and finished in 1843. The shopping arcade is as grand as Les Galleries Royales in Brussels, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan, and the Passage in St. Petersburg. Promoter Luis Pommeraye lost it all in the project. Today, it’s the best shopping mall in the city.
A monumental staircase connects the mall’s three levels. Notice the marble floors and elegant ceilings. The neo-renaissance sculptures on the corners represent agriculture, maritime trade, and fine arts. Look for the sculpture Ode to Laziness on the ceiling. Locals flock to the arcade to shop and socialize. There are even residences.
Le Lieu unique – La Tour Lu 1895
Le Lieu Unique is a contemporary cultural center inside the former Lu biscuit factory in downtown Nantes. The factory closed and moved out of the city in 1986. The building remained abandoned for three years until some artists moved in. The current cultural center opened on January 1st, 2000.
The original factory building was made of concrete and metal. It was one of the most modern buildings in Nantes at the time. In 1909, two elaborate towers were added on two corners. Only one survived to this day. You’ll recognize it by its elegant art deco appearance. Notice the angel with a trumpet and small eagles on the dome.
La Maison Radieuse 1955
No architecture guide of Nantes is complete without the iconic building designed by no other than Le Corbusier himself. La Maison Radieuse is the city’s most spectacular mid-20th Century building. However, the residential building is in the suburb of Rezé, close to the local town hall. The building is from 1955.
The compound follows the principles of Unité d’habitation, which Le Corbusier developed in the 1920s. Its 294 residential units are distributed in seventeen floors suspended on large pilotis. Just like in his project in Marseille, there is a school on the top floor and communal units. However, there is no retail space.
Palais de Justice 2000
Nantes’ giant Palais de Justice was the first building to open when the Île de Nantes was remodeled. Star architect Jean Nouvel designed the monumental palace to replace an old one in the city center. Since it opened, the courthouse has experienced several problems, like falling panels, water leaks, and heating malfunctions.
Jean Nouvel won the competition for the new courthouse in 2013. His project was guided by the principles of visibility and monumentality, as he perceived the justice institution. Its simple lines represent the strength of the justice system. The glass panels show its transparency. The massive pillars on the main façade remind us of the ancient Greek temples.
Roller Coaster 2008
Île Beaulieu is one of the first areas of Île de Nantes that was redeveloped in the early 21st Century. We are talking about the massive neighborhood east of Boulevard des Martyrs Nantais de la Résistance. Today, large green areas and colorful buildings adorn the neighborhood. Among them, one stands out: the so-called Roller Coaster.
Parisian office Peripheriques Architectes designed the building in 2008. It’s a U-shaped building around a garden on the southern side. The large ramps on the roof give it its roller-coaster appearance. Wooden and metal balconies protrude irregularly from the shiny lacquered steel façade. The whole project is fun and inviting!
Manny 2009
Hidden behind the Palais de Justice is Manny, one of the city’s most iconic buildings. The sleek structure provides space for architects and art professionals. The whole place is about innovation and creativity. Tetrarc Architects did the project. Due to its aluminum exterior, Manny changes color during the day.
The architects came up with this creative and environmentally sensitive building. The aluminum veil that covers the whole exterior filters the light inside. The public showroom on the ground is for exhibitions, conferences, and other events. You’ll love the two huge staircases.
La Fabrique 2011
La Fabrique is another exciting project in Île de Nantes designed by Tetrarc. The city needed a new hub for digital arts and contemporary music. La Fabrique has two separate buildings for 400 and 1200 spectators. One is a tall glass tower while the other is concrete. Notice how the architects played with shapes and materials to create truly dynamic forms.
The industrial past of the Île de Nantes inspired the project. Its authors believe culture should have continuity. Therefore, the idea of giving new life to former industrial premises. Don’t forget to visit the Halle the Dubigeon, part of the project. It used to be a shipyard.
30 Social Housing Units 2014
Antonini + Darmon Arquitectes sign this residential project. As its name says, there are 30 Social Housing Units. The building has one of the best locations in town: next to the main esplanade. There are also several community spaces. Though big, the building looks light and fun.
The architects took advantage of its location. They designed a building that stands out by its obvious contrast. On one side is a tall white apartment building. On the other, a low wooden building where the community spaces are. Notice how transparent the tower looks, contrary to the closeness of the community building.
Inoxia Apartments 2016
The latest addition to Nantes’ contemporary architecture scene is Euronantes, a new neighborhood south of the train station. The neighborhood’s center is in the Malakoff district between the train station and the Loire River. The area is still under construction, but most buildings are done.
Our favorite residential building is Inoxia Apartments on the crossroads of two main avenues. Christophe Rousselle Architects designed the complex in 2016. You’ll notice its angular balconies wrapped up around the façade. These irregularly shaped balconies give each apartment a different view. The smaller building has a clean rectangular shape.
Le Voyage a Nantes Art Installations
Sculptures at Jardin des Plantes
Jardin des Plantes is a botanical garden in downtown Nantes. The garden was planted in 1806, and opened to the public in 1829. Today, it contains 11.000 different species of plants. There are lakes, fountains, pavilions, cascades, and statues. We like the new ones in particular.
Local graphic designer Jean Julien created four quirky sculptures in 2020. We are talking about four oversized cartoons of people with a black contour line. One shows three people embracing the trees. Another cartoon floats on its back in the lake. A third one scratches the grass with his fork-like hand while someone else walks with very long hair made of ivy.
Les Machines de l’Île
The one project that put Nantes onto the world art map is the Machines of the Isle of Nantes. François Delarozière and Pierre Orefice are behind this grand project. They design unique mechanical structures inside the former shipyards of Île de Nantes. Today, this is the main venue.
The star of the project is the Great Elephant. The 39 feet (12 m) long and 26 feet (8 m) high mechanical creature is made of 45 tones of wood and steel. People can hop on its back and take a half an hour ride around the area. The other two impressive pieces are the Heron Tree in front of the Shipyard and the Marine Worlds Carousel on the esplanade.
As its name says, the Jardin Extraordinaire is an extraordinary garden in the Chantenay district to the west. In 2016, local authorities turned the Miséry de Chantenay quarry into a park. A huge cliff separates the upper park from the lower one, creating two different spaces. The whole garden opens up to the Loire River.
The works of Jules Verne, a Nantes native, inspired the authors of the garden. The giant rock symbolizes strength. The plants seem to float into space. There is a giant waterfall. The views from the stairs and the platforms will take your breath away. Don’t forget to visit the nearby Hermitage Belvedere, a tall viewpoint that looks like a nest.
Artistic Shop Signs in Rue Marechal Joffre
A couple of years ago, Marechal Joffre was an ordinary street in downtown Nantes. But everything changed in 2014. That year the Voyage du Nantes commissioned Quentin Faucompré, Olivier Texier, and Pascal Lebrain to design numerous shop signs all along the street. Four more artists joined them later.
Locals call them automates-enseignes. These tiny sculptures will get your attention. The majority of them are robots doing things related to the shop. While someone is drinking a beer, someone else is getting dressed. We liked the double sculptures of a couple smoking a cigarette and a hairdresser cutting his customer’s hair.
Cool Hotels to Stay in Nantes
We strongly recommend the Oceania l’Hôtel de France Nantes, on Graslin Square. You can’t get a better location. The luxurious 18th Century mansion has been updated with modern day conveniences. However, the decor is antique. Book a private suite with a terrace for breathtaking views.
If you prefer a chic modern hotel, then Hôtel La Pérouse is your best choice. It looks like a monolith carved from a single block with windows at different heights. Don’t let its minimalist style fool you. They are obsessed with quality. Ask for a room at the highest floor for epic views.
